"We needed an extra day or two for it to settle in. After all, the first XXL swell of the season was upon us. Big-wave guys were running south on virtually no sleep. Photogs were burning the midnight oil processing, recharging their batteries and shooting some more. And all the while, the surf kept on pumping." -Mike Cianciulli
For the full story and a sweet photo gallery visit our friends at Surfline. Also, be sure to peep our photo gallery of our Juniors scoring some waves here in OC during this swell coming later today...
Jason Harris all tucked in and close to home. Photo: Lowe-White
Christian Saenz evening takeoff. Photo: Goulding